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A Guide to Modern Koi Pond Construction Rendering the pond
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When all the work on the previous pages are completed then you are ready to start rendering the surface of the walls, base, etc. Although the blockwork is fairly easy to do yourself if you have the time most members find that plastering or rendering of the walls is one task that they prefer to get done by a professional. Method 1. |
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This photograph
shows the pond after the first coat of render has been completed. You
will note that the surface has been roughened ready to accept the second
coat. Click here for a larger image. |
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The second, or top coat, is made up to the same mix, but
this time we add two other ingredients to the render. The first is a waterproofing
agent, and the instructions on the tin will tell you the amount required. The other ingredient is Fibromix, and the photograph shows this material. It consists of glass fibres, and is broken up and added to the mix. This helps to bind the cement together and gives a stronger surface, and minimises surface cracking. |
| When the render is dry it will be found that some fibres will be sticking out. It is essential to remove these, and the best way is to use a blow lamp with a yellow flame (or a cigarette lighter) just to burn them off and then rub the surface smooth. | |
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When the second coat of render
has been completed then you will have a good smooth finish, and this
should be carefully checked. One way
is to use three coats of G4 pond sealer and following the maker's
instructions very carefully. Another product now on the market is P1. This is a too pack product, is easy to apply and is water based. It is available in clear, dark green, and black and can be purchased from East Riding Koi. Another product is Koi-kote from Aquakote. There have been good reports for both these products but I have not seen them in use in this area as most ponds are fibreglassed. |
| TIP. The first or scratch coat should be lower than the top of the bottom drain lip by the same thickness as the second render coat you are putting over the rest of the base. Then when you have completed the final render coat it should be level with the top of the drain. | |
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Method
2. The final surface of the render
should not be too smooth and most professionals use a sponge in circular
movements. This allows the G4 or other type of coating to adhere more
easily to the surface. |
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We will now look at the alternative of fibreglassing the pond. See also Questions & Answers for Render & Fibromix.
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This page slightly updated June 2004 |
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This website started with a booklet which I made up originally for the help of those members of the BKKS - South Wales Section who were intending to start building a koi pond, and as the website has expanded more information and articles from other people have been included. This is for general guidance only, and we do not take any responsibility for problems that might occur by following these ideas. It is important that you check out everything in your area, and check on local laws and rules that may apply. |
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Copyright © 1999-2006 Eric W Poingdestre
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